MAY IN THE ROCKIES

It’s the first part of May here in the Rockies, the weather is warming up, and it seems like time to get out planting! Note the key words, “seems like.” It sure does seem like it should be the right time, but it just isn’t. The weather is so unpredictable here this time of year, that although the forecast currently looks warm enough for the next 10 days, you just never know what may happen. Last year (2022) we received about 28” of snow between May 20-24, other years we’ve had snow in June, and it can happen any year, even after several very warm days.

In our earlier years of gardening here, we did everything we could to get an early start. We were successful at keeping plants alive, but it was a lot of extra work. We made hoops for our raised beds to allow covering them with plastic, frost cloth or shade cloth as needed. We started several plants under our grow lights and in the greenhouse to give them a good start, then transplanted the cold-tolerant plants out as early as the first or second week of May. All said and done, those plants did not die and produced nice, edible veggies.

But truth be told it was a lot of work covering things nightly and other plants of the same variety planted out just 2-3 weeks later when the weather was more consistently above freezing caught up quickly to the first group. In many cases the second group produced healthier, larger, better produce. Think broccoli, cabbage, other brassicas, lettuce or spinach.

Over the years I have become less prone to race out to the garden, and this year I am even more relaxed. Yes, I have a small number of those plants growing in the greenhouse for a good start, but I am not in a hurry to transplant them outside. By waiting just one or two additional weeks, I know they will do well and grow fast once outside, and I won’t have to worry so much about covering them every night, uncovering them in the mornings, or running out to be sure they’re protected from hail.

While I wait for the right time to plant, there is plenty of other work to do getting the raised beds ready by adding compost & amendments to the soil, starting seeds indoors, pruning & removing greenhouse plants to add to our composter, & tending the greenhouse plants that soon be transplanted. 

I’m also reviewing all my old garden notes and putting them into a new format on the computer so they’ll be easier to access and keep up to date.

 

Fioretto Sprouting Cauliflower

2021: WHAT A SUMMER!

The GARDEN SUMMER of 2021 was fabulous. Great weather, abundant harvests & no rodents made it a hit in my book. This year the pasture grasses stayed greener longer, the wildflowers flourished, and there were a good deal more ladybugs in the garden (and very few grubs).

Maybe next year I’ll get to the point of knowing just what to start when, and how much of each thing at a time. There were a few too many of some things and not enough of others. I’m getting much better at that each year, and if I follow through on this year’s notes next year, I should be good to go.

HIGHLIGHTS
FIORETTO SPROUTING CAULIFLOWER: I’m really glad I found this sprouting cauliflower. I like this better than the regular crown type of cauliflower: it is much sweeter and delicious simply steamed. Some of them were beautiful & picture perfect like the one in the photo, others rather scraggly in appearance, but all of them were just as tasty no matter what they looked like.

ONIONS: I started more onions much earlier than before, first in soil blocks under lights then transplanted to the greenhouse prior to going outside. All-in-all they did quite well in numbers, but still small-to-medium in size. I admit I planted them a little closer together than recommended, but perhaps in these conditions they just won’t get any larger. The more the merrier.

GREEN BEANS (BUSH): This year I grew the same bush beans, SPEEDY, and they over-performed. I might say that I have too many, but frozen beans are great and the freezer full of beans will provide many green bean casseroles along with just plain ole’ steamed green beans as a side. The lady bugs may have helped to keep the aphids off!

CELERY: This was my best celery year so far. I did a different variety this year, TANGO, so perhaps that contributed to the success. I also gave them a better start in the greenhouse prior to going outdoors. Too bad they don’t store very long and I don’t eat that much.

SQUASH: ZUCCHINI & the SMALL WONDER SPAGHETTI Squash were plentiful. See my newest favorite zucchini recipe HERE. The CELEBRATION harvest was fewer and BUTTERBUSH not so great. I won’t be doing Butterbush again.

BRASSICAS: In addition to the Fioretto, all the brassicas did well, as usual. No surprise there. We had lots of broccoli & broccolini, cauliflower, cabbage, brussels sprouts and rutabagas. I grew a bit too much cabbage & too many rutabagas, but next year I should get the amount more suited to my needs.

OTHER than the above, peas, lettuces, carrots, parsnips & beets all did well.

DISAPPOINTMENTS
GARLIC: I thought I may never bother with garlic again. The seed garlic I usually purchase through mail order is expensive, and the yield I get isn’t worth the cost. This year I planted 26 cloves and harvested just NINE wimpy little bulbs. Perhaps the winter was colder, or because I planted the garlic on one of the outer, perimeter shadier beds it got colder. I’m not sure. None of the garlic at the edge of the bed grew, only the inner row, and not all of those. I got some sale garlic this year, so I’m trying just one row in one of the inner beds, well protected in the center of the bed.

2021 Potatoes

POTATOES: This year the potato plants certainly flourished, as seen in the photo, but unfortunately the yield wasn’t so great. This year I planted Chieftain (red) and Caribou (russet) potatoes. Both varieties were small in number and in size, but in good shape & delicious. Perhaps the trial planting method this year inhibited their growth. I tried placing the seed potatoes ON TOP of the soil, covering them with many layers of mulch, but apparently that didn’t work as well as promised.

ASPARAGUS: Most of the asparagus that came up this year was very skinny and froze before I had a chance to harvest it, even though it was covered with frost cloth. Not sure what to do about that.

ME: The only other “disappointment” is my inability to eat everything I grow before it goes bad, particularly the things that need to be eaten fresh. I need to do a better job of spacing things out.

GREENHOUSE
The only things grown in the greenhouse during summer months were TOMATOES & WINTER SQUASH which both did decently. I tried a new variety of tomatoes, Cordova, which suffered from some BLOSSOM END ROT & APHIDS, but eventually I managed to control them both to get some nice tomatoes off those plants. Some greenhouse space was planted with cover crops or let to rest. I really don’t need anything else in the greenhouse during the summer, and the rest period is good to prepare for a busy winter of growing.

COLD-CLOSET-ROOT-CELLAR
Aside from the garden itself, we’ve found that we can keep our “cold-closet” cold by adding ice to it in late summer after I begin harvesting root veggies and before the nights are cool enough to keep it cold. Now that our electricity is solar, we don’t pay any extra to use the freezer space for freezing ice. Several water bottles frozen and swapped with another batch of frozen bottles every other day or so kept the cold closet around 45 degrees beginning the end of August when we needed it for beets & rutabagas. (Next year I plan to start the ruties & beets later in the summer for a later harvest, thus enabling them to store longer into the winter.)

FALL & WINTER

GREENHOUSE: For fall & winter the greenhouse is filled with tomatoes, lettuce, spinach, zucchini, cabbage, broccoli & cauliflower. I’ll be saving space for my “onion nursery” to begin in February, like last year.

OUTDOORS: The last of the potatoes, carrots & parsnips were harvested before the ground froze, mid-November. Most of the beds have been put to rest by topping them with compost which was made throughout the summer & fall. The remaining beds will wait for compost early in the spring. 

Other than that, winter will hopefully be spent updating all of the vegetable pages here with growing instructions and recipes.

And playing radio!

GrowVeg Garden Plan for 2021

2021 GARDEN & GREENHOUSE PLANNING

It’s the end of February, and despite the winter cold, the garden is not far from my mind. The greenhouse has been keeping us supplied with veggies all winter, in addition to what was stored from the 2020 summer garden outdoors. 

OUTDOOR GARDEN

GrowVeg Garden Plan for 2021

My GrowVeg Garden Planner is complete for summer 2021. Some changes are likely to be made, but the plans are in motion, the seeds have been ordered and arrived, the calendar reminders have been set. A few seedlings have already been started.

I have been using this GrowVeg Garden Planner for many years both in my former garden and here in Guffey. GrowVeg has made some changes this year due to the end of Flash Player, and now it’s faster, easier to use, and they’ve made some great changes. I was able to be a beta tester for this new planner, and had a lot of fun trying it out during the later planning stages.

As always, I’ve rotated my crops as much as possible and have planned in advance which beds will be started earlier and which will be later, as well as which will be saved for my 2022 Garlic. This year I will try a few new varieties of veggies I’ve grown before, but no new veggies. As usual, I’m keeping the things that need to be covered the most in the interior beds, as these are the easiest to cover with plastic over the hoops. The perimeter beds are primarily garlic, onions, potatoes, beets & parsnips. The horizontal perimeter beds across the top of the plan receive the most sun in the fall when it is lower in the sky, so I’m planning the crops to be harvested last in that area: my second planting of broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, brussels sprouts, some spinach, lettuce and carrots. All of these can be harvested after a few light frosts, and the sun will help them warm up to grow as long as possible. 

Tim & I are planning better ways to cover the perimeter beds with frost cloth for those first few weeks when there will likely be frost and a snowstorm or two. Our old frostcloth has gotten rather ratty & mouse-eaten, so we purchased enough new frostcloth to cover just about all the beds. This is in addition to the plastic we use to cover the most susceptible plants in the interior areas.

Hopefully this year we will not have the problems with the mice and pack rats as we did last year. The bait traps Tim had put out really seemed to keep them under control the later part of the summer. By having them in place throughout the winter & spring, we hope to prevent all damage to the garden. We may make a few changes to the way we protect things from the spring cold & snow with better supports for frost cloth and/or plastic, and make it easier to put them out at night and remove them in the morning.

GREENHOUSE
The greenhouse has been growing great! In the fall I planted some broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, lettuce, tomatoes & zucchini. We’ve really enjoyed eating these fresh from the greenhouse. A couple of my tomatoes have produced the best tomatoes I’ve ever grown in the greenhouse. The Oregon Spring & Siletz tomatoes have been big, meaty, juicy, with few seeds and easy to peel when I don’t want the skins. Since I’ve had such an abundance, I’ve frequently used them for any recipe that uses diced tomatoes or tomato sauce. I think they liked the location (or I did a better job of keeping them fertilized!).

Greenhouse Plan for February 2021

I’ve used the Garden Planner extensively for the greenhouse as well. The “In-Ground Dates” feature in the planner is especially helpful. The photo at the right shows the greenhouse plan for the end of February. With the Planner I am able to show specific plants for each month of the year. Since my greenhouse is used constantly, taking out old plants and replacing the spot with new ones, this really helps me keep track of things and plan ahead. I’m able to start seedlings on my grow bench under lights, preparing them to go in where something else will be removed. At the bottom I’ve added our three cold frames, which may be planted in March with lettuces, spinach, and perhaps some onions to transplant later to the garden.

GREENHOUSE COVER CROPS
This year I’ve felt like I may have been overworking the soil in the greenhouse. Even though I typically refresh the soil by adding compost, vermicompost, aged manure & fertilizers each time something is planted, I fear that is not enough. Without going to the trouble of allowing a long rest period or removing all the soil and replacing it, I’m experimenting with planting some cover crops, some of which are shown in this February plan. I tilled in some well-aged horse manure or some fairly fresh duck manure and a bit of vermicompost, then scattered seeds of mustards, cowpeas, buckwheat & daikon radish. I’m giving them a chance to sprout & grow a bit, then tilling them in. In some cases, I’ve planted pretty soon after tilling these in, but in some of the larger areas I’m experimenting with solarizing the soil by covering the area with clear plastic. The solarizing should heat up the soil and kill diseases which could be in the soil. Hopefully this will only take 2-3 months and should help recondition my tired soil. There should be an update later on how well this goes, but I won’t have actual “data” and will only know by how well the plants grow. As it is said, “Only time will tell.”

August 3, 2020

EVERY YEAR IS DIFFERENT

I’m learning that EVERY YEAR IS DIFFERENT, especially at high elevation. Gardens here present more challenges than those at lower elevation: variable and cold weather, short seasons, new pests & old ones, personal health issues, as well as other factors such as COVID-19 in 2020, which affected seed & garden supply shortages. Fortunately, I had ordered all my seeds prior to the shortages, and I generally have all the other supplies I need on hand.

August 3, 2020

I’m learning to accept disappointing harvests with an attitude of knowing I’m fortunate to have whatever I’m able to harvest, and it’s a lot more than many other folks who don’t put out the effort. I shrug my shoulders and smile, knowing that what disappoints in one year may produce an abundant harvest the next.

2020 was by far the most challenging weather, and our first year to battle with mice & pack rats.
2019 I was still recovering from my hip injury in the spring, but together we planted a full garden. Somehow I did not remember to write a recap of what the garden produced in 2019, but I know there was a bumper crop of potatoes!
2018 I broke my hip in late August and was unable to finish out the garden harvest & winter preparation. (Tim did everything I asked!)
2017 was our first full garden year, with many new things to learn about growing at high elevation.

From now on, each year will be presented in review with weather highlights, pest challenges, new vegetables grown, new varieties tried, and other new things I’ve learned. 

Pack Rats

2020 SUMMER NEMESES

In the past we haven’t had many problems with pests. We thought our garden was pretty much pest-proof. We were pretty sure no deer, bunnies or squirrels could get in. This year we have experienced two new nemeses that kept us busy trying to get rid of them. First, mice. Then their larger cousin, the pack rat. Yeesh! What a year. 

MICE
Early in May, we began to see evidence of chewing on some of the freshly transplanted seedlings, particularly things like the broccoli, cabbage & cauliflower planted in the beds around the perimeter. We’d always known mice would be able to fit in through the stucco netting which surrounds the garden perimeter beds, but we hadn’t experienced problems with them previously. This year they came with a vengeance. We put out bait stations as well as snap traps, and began catching 1-4 mice each night. Eventually there weren’t as many caught, and after the plants were larger, the mice didn’t seem to gnaw on them as much. But, almost nightly we reset the traps and each morning went out to check them, unsnap them, and retrieve any dead mice.

See the damage on this broccoli plant from May 5 after it was damaged, then as it grew back, then close to harvest, July 26.

We got the Tomcat mouse traps, which are a lot easier to set and also to release the dead mice than the traditional wood + spring type trap. You can also purchase some attractant, which makes baiting the traps a bit easier than peanut butter. In addition to the bait and traps, we cut out the bottoms out of several plastic bottles and placed them over the small seedlings to keep the mice out. That worked pretty well, but was an extra chore to place on the plants each night and remove in the morning. In addition to the traps & bottles, we began putting out mouse bait. We no longer cared about how the mice were removed, we just wanted them gone.

PACK RATS
The first inkling that we may have pack rats was May 30th, when I discovered this neatly laid pile of onions next to the onion bed, and these potato stems and cabbage leaves dismembered from their plants. (Fortunately these plants all survived!) I didn’t think that the mice would be able to do this, and the only thing I could think of was that it may be pack rats, known to be in our area. Below are photos of some of the damage found that day.

Sometime in mid-August we realized that something had been on our deck several nights, and guessed that it was probably pack rats leaving behind bits of weeds and pack rat scat. We heard some noises at night like scratching under one of our windows. It turned out that it had squeezed into a spot between the deck and the greenhouse roof and was building a nest. Tim plugged the hole it had used to get in and we got a rat-sized trap. We caught one, but after that we would find the trap sprung with no critter in it. After the hole was plugged and traps were placed, I guess it needed a new place, and found our garden.

The morning of August 28 I was shocked to find damage all around the garden… As seen below, SEVERAL plants were damaged! 

In addition to the damaged plants, the four bait stations we’d left out for the mice were gone! Not just the bait, the whole plastic bait station. Gone! Clearly, this had to be a pack rat family.

We were quite disheartened by the damage, but as I keep reminding myself, “every year is different”. I’m also getting better at laughing at some of the things that happen, with an attitude of, “isn’t that interesting?” Everything is never perfect, and every year brings new learning experiences.

Eventually, Tim found a DIY rat bait station idea online. He made a couple of these, put them out, and the first night the PR’s got into them and ate all 5 blocks of the bait out of each one. It’s large enough for the pack rats to get in, but not the cat, dog, or ducks. The bait blocks are suspended from the top on a rod or wire, each one falling to the bottom as the bottom one is eaten. After the first two were successful, Tim made about four more, and they are scattered all around out property. At this point, we seem to have taken care of the problem.

What about the cat, you ask? She does catch mice, but is locked inside each night (either the RV or a shed) to keep her from becoming coyote bait. We had been keeping her in our RV at night to keep the mice away, and it worked great….until she got bored and started tearing up the edge of the sofa. Now she’s in the shed at night. After moving the cat out of the RV, the pack rats found a new cozy home inside. We discovered they’d gotten in to the kitchen cabinets under the sink. After cleaning it all up & removing all the kitchen wares, Tim put another big trap out by the side of the RV, and they haven’t been in there since. Or else, they’re really neat and don’t poop or leave weeds laying around.

So that’s our pests saga for 2020. This year we found that the deer ate the rhubarb, which they haven’t done before. Other than that, it’s just another garden year with more experience under our belts. Next year, we will be proactive early in the spring with our DIY bait stations to keep the mice from the garden, house, sheds, barn, you name it.

Snow in September

SNOW. SEPTEMBER 8.

Snow in September

Yes, it’s September. When I posted about a late snow in June, I had no idea that my very next post would be about an early snow in September, but here we are. This year, from our last snow to the first snow was 92 days. From the last day less than 32° to the first, it was 69 days. This was an unusually short summer, even here. In the previous 5 years (since I have been recording the weather) the days between last/first snow have ranged from 129-158 days (2020: 92); the days between last/first day below 32° have ranged from 82-113 days (2020: 69).

We had plenty of warning and had planned as best we could to harvest whatever could be harvested and protect any thing else that might be saved. Some things will be lost. I’m hopeful that the remaining brassicas, lettuces, spinach, and root vegetables will be okay and may even produce more growth. The potatoes, tucked underground, will be fine, but I doubt that the plants will grow any more. A couple of cauliflower were planted in July and were still small–I will be interested to see if they survived. Obviously the zucchini pictured here did not survive.

On another note, I don’t know how these other bloggers manage to produce blog content throughout the summer when they are busy in the garden. I obviously don’t do so well at that. But, soon I hope to catch up and provide new insights to growing food at 9,000 feet.

SNOW IN JUNE

SNOW IN JUNE ?!?!?!?

If that’s a question, the answer is YES. It can snow in June here in the Rockies. On Tuesday morning, June 9, we woke up to 2-4″ of soggy snow. It was pretty windy overnight so the snow drifted to make it hard to measure exactly how much. On the average I’d say there was a good 2″. The overnight low temperature was 29.5°, and was below 32° for about 5 hours.

What about the garden?
We are well prepared for almost anything, including snow and below-freezing temperatures. We’d seen the forecast, so planned ahead and covered everything as much as possible. Of course, our shadecloth protects not only against the intense sun, but keeps out hail, and in this case, snow.

The most temperate plants (squashes and their companion flowers, and bush beans) are covered each night with plastic over the hoop frames, but on this night we added an additional layer of frostcloth directly over the plants inside those hoops. We have been covering many of our plants with various plastic containers at night primarily to keep the mice out, but in this case they provided extra protection from the cold and snow. The potatoes and other beds with cold-sensitive plants were all covered with frostcloth underneath the shadecloth. Additionally the smallest, most immature plants that do not have plastic over the hoops had water bottles placed around them for added protection against the cold, with frostcloth layed over the top.

In the morning we removed the snow from the shadecloth & frostcloth and opened up the hoop tunnels. By the afternoon, just about all the snow had melted and it reached 53°.

Everything seems to have survived and is doing well!

EARLY SPRING

EARLY SPRING 2020

MAY 25, 2020 - BEGINNING TO "GREEN UP"

I know most folks wouldn’t call this “early” spring, but here in the mountains it’s still early. Because our average last frost date is sometime around June 10-15, I need to be careful about what is planted outdoors prior to that time. In the past I have started a few beds of veggies around May 15, I’ve kept them covered through at least the end of May, with the ability to throw on some frost cloth up to the end of June. (In 2018 and 2019, the last day of 32° or less were 6/25 and 6/23, respectively.)

This year, we had such nice weather the last week of April, including warmer nights, I decided to go ahead and transplant the things that were ready in the greenhouse. I was glad I’d started a few things plenty early! So, the last week of April I transplanted some broccoli, broccolini, brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, kohlrabi, kale, lettuce & spinach. All were covered nightly with the plastic we have prepared to roll down over our hoops at night, and plastic bottles filled with water are placed around the plants for added warmth. They soak up the sun and heat up during the day to release that heat to their nearby plants at night. I also sowed some peas & parsnip seeds in the ground, and kept those beds covered with frost cloth.

All those things were doing nicely, UNTIL…. MICE got into one of the beds, then three nights in a row the temperature dove to 18-21°. 

MICE
This is the first year we’ve ever experienced a problem with mice in the garden. We always knew that mice would be the only thing that might get through our defenses..it just hadn’t happened. On May 5 I went out to discover that 2 cabbages and 2 broccoli had all been chewed pretty well. Guessing it may have been mice, we put out a trap the next night we didn’t catch one, but the trap had been sprung. The third broccoli in that bed, and the two cauliflower were chewed. The following night sure enough, one squashed mouse was found in the morning. We began setting two traps nightly and set out some D-Con bait traps as well. I cut out the bottoms of some plastic bottles and began setting them over the plants at night. The mice also ate some lettuce & bok choy, but not the spinach or the chinese cabbage. Surprisingly, one morning I found that they’d eaten several onions in another area at the far side of the garden. I’d read that mice did not like onions–not so! At this time, traps are still set nightly with an occasional casualty, and the D-Con seems to have sent a few mice to our ducks’ pool looking for a drink of water and finding a watery drowning instead. It appears that the cabbage and broccoli survived their torture; however, the two cauliflower were too well chewed to come back. Now, for all things transplanted to the perimeter beds, they are covered with bottles, which seems to work well both to keep out the mice and the cold.

COLD
As mentioned previously, we had a few particularly frigid nights. All the plants seem to have survived, but lost a couple of their earliest leaves and were probably set back some. The plastic coverings and water bottles can only do so much to keep out the cold. Perhaps some added frost cloth directly atop the plants would have helped on those coldest nights. It didn’t help that I forgot to cover one of the brussels sprouts on one of those nights! It seems to have survived, but is not near as healthy as those that were covered. All the spinach and lettuces handled the cold just fine.

PLANTS IN THE GROUND
In addition to the things planted the end of April, I gradually have added potatoes, onions, beet transplants and a second round of most of the brassicas and peas. Please read more about the ONIONS & GARLIC started in the fall that didn’t make it and those that did. I have a new onion experiment for 2020. 

Since none of our BERRIES did well, all have been removed. Those beds are now filled with potatoes, since they also like acidic soil. That left we with more bed space for other things where I had originally planned to put the potatoes, so we will be enjoying more of what grows well: brassicas (broccoli, broccolini, cabbage, cauliflower and for the first time brussels sprouts), carrots, peas. I tried some BROCCOLINI in the greenhouse over the winter, and it was a hit! I now have quite a bit of it started outdoors for a continual harvest for as long as it lasts.

PLANTS NOT IN THE GROUND
Started in the greenhouse but not yet ready for transplant are winter squash, summer squash, melon, celery, basil, cilantro, caraway, dill. I will sow carrot seeds this week and beans maybe the first week of June. All these things require more warmth and will wait until it’s safe. The greenhouse keeps our tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and more squash in the summer months.

Brrr 022320 - 500x333

WINTER PASTIMES

BRRRRR! IT’S COLD OUTSIDE!

What do we do all winter long? Winter 2019-2020 has been colder, with fewer sunny days than the previous winters we have been here. It seems longer! Today is one of those gloomy, snowy days. The past few days have been warm enough to melt quite a bit of snow & create quite a bit of mud in the process. The driveway & paths around the house are quite muddy!

Today the ducks are all snuggled together, bills under their wings for added warmth. The ducks’ paddock has been like this much of the winter, iced up and snowy.  When it isn’t frozen, it’s muddy and messy. Most winters there are warm days I get out the pool for them, but not this winter!

The garden sits idle, snow drifted up to the top edge of the raised beds. I won’t be going out there any time soon, and I suspect it may be much later than usual before I can get out there to begin springtime chores. Indoors there has been plenty of time to order seeds and plan the garden.

Tim’s big project this winter has been handcrafting a new set of aspen furniture for us. So far he has made three end tables (one of them a unique triangle shape) and a TV stand. These are beautiful and add a homey Colorado look to our home.

When Tim isn’t in his workshop creating our aspen furniture, he’s often indoors on the computer, working on one project or another. Laurie has spent a lot of time this winter on this website, spiffing it up and learning a LOT about website design. On days like this, Goldie & KK are in the house with us, keeping warm and not wanting to miss out on what we’re doing. Laurie has also picked up crochet, and made the blanket KK sits on.

USDA Hardiness Zones

GROWING ZONES & MOUNTAIN CLIMATES

I DO AS MUCH RESEARCH AS I CAN  before I plant the garden. I want to be successful! To do so I know I need to plant fruits and vegetables that will grow well in my climate. I also want to choose the specific varieties that should do the best.

In my unique environment, this is very difficult! Many of the books we have read about vegetable gardening are based on the author’s personal experience in their own location. They often don’t seem to have a clue about what it’s like where I live. Many websites are written with lots of suggestions, but often don’t even mention where the authors are located. This is incredibly frustrating. Our short seasons, cold summer nights, & warm days, just don’t fit with most gardening plans and charts. The “local” nurseries and garden shops we go to don’t generally understand or carry varieties particularly suited for our location either, since they are all located at least 3,000 feet lower than my location. (They aren’t exactly “local”.)

USDA PLANT HARDINESS ZONES

ZIP CODE MAPS & CHARTS

Let’s start with the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. You can enter your zip code on this page to find your growing zone, right? Wrong! I enter my zip code and it seems to think I am in Zone 5a. Unfortunately, the map is not very precise. There are plenty of maps & charts which attempt to determine your climate by zip code. These MAY be helpful, but should be considered carefully! I am in a rural area, and climate charts that use zip code locations sometimes try to find the nearest city center to determine information.

THIS MAP actually showed that my town, Guffey, is in Hardiness Zones 3b, 4a, 4b, 5a and 5b, in really big print at the top, with a map that really zooms in to home.

 

I’m located in that green square, which shows my microclimate of 4b in the middle of what’s generally 5a. Most other zip code reference maps don’t show such detail within a zip code. 

Whether it’s growing zones or frost dates, many zip code search finders tend to default either to Colorado Springs (6100-6500 ft, about 65 miles away) or to Canon City (5300 ft, about 37 miles away). Colorado Springs is just about the same latitude as us, so that’s a bit helpful regarding day length. The First/Last Frost Dates on almanac.com show me Canon City’s first & last dates, which are nothing like ours. If you’re in a rural area, finding information for suitable plants can be challenging.

Unfortunately, knowing the USDA Zone is not helpful enough. It is my opinion that these “zones” are inadequate & limited at best. Most seed & plant catalogs, web stores and informational materials seem to rely heavily on USDA Zones to provide information for gardeners as to whether a plant will survive or thrive. But the USDA Plant Hardiness system is lacking and does not consider many other factors. Winter temperatures are only one part of the equation. There are a lot of other factors to consider, such as:

  • Are summer daytimes hot or cool? Are the nights warm or cold?
  • How long is the season? First & Last frost dates don’t coincide with the USDA Zones.
  • What is the latitude, and how many hours of sunlight are there in each day?
  • What is the altitude, and what effect does it have on the climate?
  • Do summer UV rays affect the ability to grow plants successfully?

What I would like to see the nurseries or other resources provide for perennials are things like: how warm should summers be for the plant to thrive or survive? how long does the summer season need to be in order for the plant to produce fruit/vegetables? Can’t they provide something similar to seed packets for annuals, which clearly indicate the “days to maturity”?

SOUTHERN VS. NORTHERN CLIMATES & LATITUDE CONSIDERATIONS

I find many resources that refer to colder “northern” climates that are Zone 3 or 4 on the USDA charts. Often, seed & plant descriptions will indicate when a variety is good for northern climates. I used to think that things that would grow there would grow well here as well. After all, it’s cold there, right? Perhaps so in winter, but northern latitudes have longer summer seasons, warmer summer temperatures and more hours of sunlight than we do here. Both daytime and nighttime temperatures are often higher than ours.

I spot-checked a few cities in northern Zone 3 & 4 areas to determine some of their statistics. I wanted to know whether my assumptions above were valid. I wanted to see the differences between one Zone 4 and another, or between Zone 3 and my own location. I selected these locations:

Home: These are my own observations based on collecting data the past 4.5 years.
Guffey: This is our nearest town.
Minot, ND & Bemidji, MN: Just a couple of northern cities I’ve picked with information easy to find.
Wolcott, VT: High Mowing Seeds is located here. I know they grow a lot of vegetables there and it is not far from Ed Smith, who wrote “The Vegetable Gardener’s Bible”. Many seed producers seem to be in VT, NH and ME.
Harborside, ME: This is where Eliot Coleman’s “Four Season Farm” is located. He has written several gardening books with lots of suggestions that work well for him.

  1. Home – Actual Observations. Last & First Frost Dates are the latest and earliest I have experienced so far.
  2. USDA Zone Map: https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/InteractiveMap.aspx
  3. Last-First Frost Dates found here: https://davesgarden.com/guides/freeze-frost-dates/  Determined from 90% chance of 32° Spring & Fall. Note: The first/last frost dates found at almanac.com may be very wrong!
  4. Daylength Determined from: https://www.timeanddate.com/sun/
  5. Temperatures found on Wunderground
  6. UV Index Mean found here: https://www.cpc.ncep.noaa.gov/products/stratosphere/uv_index/uv_meanmax.shtml

Note that Bemidji, in Zone 3, has about TWICE the season length and 1 more hour per day of sunshine. So, buying a plant that is hardy to Zone 3 may work well for them, but will it work well for me?

ELEVATION CONSIDERATIONS

I have attempted to locate information for planting in high elevation, and I just can’t find much. I’ve checked out a few books from the library and have viewed whatever websites seem most appropriate for gardening in the Rocky Mountains. Most of these resources have a little bit of information about growing plants at high altitude, how to protect them from late and early frost and cold spells, and a lot of basic gardening information useful for any area. I haven’t found a good, informative resource yet to indicate what will or won’t grow at high elevation. There are a few relatively local people who do consultations, workshops & seminars, but they aren’t free and aren’t really in my neighborhood. There are local county and state extension offices, but their information hasn’t been very helpful either. Many of their articles are geared to farmers, not the home gardener, and many are not written in layman’s terms.

What difference does elevation make? In our experience, the major difference in addition to our short season is that our nights are very cool, while the days can be quite warm or even hot. Of course, “hot” for us means anything over 80°, which I suppose may not be considered hot at all for some people. We have daily temperature fluctuations that can span 50°. In mid-summer some days can be as low as 37° in the morning and 87° that same afternoon. I may like this just fine, but many plants don’t! Additionally, our high elevation contributes to a more intense UV Index. This can scorch the plants if not taken into consideration. All of this causes a lot of stress to the plants.

MATURITY DATES FOR ANNUALS

Seed packets for annuals will indicate how many days it will take for plants to grow and/or bear fruit under ideal or average conditions. It’s up to the gardener to determine how long it will take in their own climate. Here, some things (cool-loving plants) mature fairly close to the dates listed, others may take another 50% or more time. Plants grown in the fall & winter in the greenhouse may be warm enough, but since our greenhouse is not given artificial light, everything takes a lot longer to mature.

WHAT DO I DO?

WHAT is my planting zone, really? I may be in USDA Zone 4 or 5 over the winter, but what is my summer zone? What I need to know is: how long of a season do perennial fruits need in order to grow and bear fruit? How warm does it need to be for the various annuals to grow successfully in the summer? Is it possible that some things will not grow here no matter how well I protect them? I would like to find a resource that indicates whether a blueberry, or raspberry, or strawberry plant will produce fruit in my area, in my length of summer season and # of hours of light per day.

It would really be nice to find a system or chart of some kind that takes all of these factors into account. Come on, USDA! Are you going to produce something useful, or continue to fool novice gardeners into believing your chart may actually be helpful?

And for seed & plant companies, one thing that may be helpful for plant descriptions, particularly for perennial fruits & vegetables, would be some kind of indication as to what length of summer season does it require? what summer temperatures would be best? how many hours of sunlight would it require? Many annual vegetables do answer these questions, I just don’t often find that kind of information for perennial plants and bare roots when purchasing.

For the most part, I’m doing the best I can by trial and error, whether planting annuals or perennials. If I buy a perennial, I look for something hardy to Zone 3, one zone colder than my location. Even then, I know that it may not do well. If something doesn’t do well one year, I try something different the next, and try not to be upset. 

Some of my trials and notes for everything I’ve attempted to grow are found at “What Grows at 9,000 Feet.”