GOLDEN GAITS GARDEN

GOLDEN GAITS GARDEN BLOG

“Golden Gaits Garden” was the blog we kept from 2009 through 2017, from the time we began gardening & raising ducks in Wellington until the time High Country Living went live in 2017. This blog had been hosted on “Blogger”, but since we have left all association with Google, these pages have been integrated with High Country Living. Some of the photos & videos were lost in the transfer, but most have been found and re-entered. Have fun looking through the pages of “Golden Gaits Garden” when we first learning to garden & raise our first ducks.

GOLDEN GAITS GARDEN BLOG POST ARCHIVES

August 3, 2020

EVERY YEAR IS DIFFERENT

I’m learning that EVERY YEAR IS DIFFERENT, especially at high elevation. Gardens here present more challenges than those at lower elevation: variable and cold weather, short seasons, new pests & old ones, personal health issues, as well as other factors such as COVID-19 in 2020, which affected seed & garden supply shortages. Fortunately, I had ordered all my seeds prior to the shortages, and I generally have all the other supplies I need on hand.

August 3, 2020

I’m learning to accept disappointing harvests with an attitude of knowing I’m fortunate to have whatever I’m able to harvest, and it’s a lot more than many other folks who don’t put out the effort. I shrug my shoulders and smile, knowing that what disappoints in one year may produce an abundant harvest the next.

2020 was by far the most challenging weather, and our first year to battle with mice & pack rats.
2019 I was still recovering from my hip injury in the spring, but together we planted a full garden. Somehow I did not remember to write a recap of what the garden produced in 2019, but I know there was a bumper crop of potatoes!
2018 I broke my hip in late August and was unable to finish out the garden harvest & winter preparation. (Tim did everything I asked!)
2017 was our first full garden year, with many new things to learn about growing at high elevation.

From now on, each year will be presented in review with weather highlights, pest challenges, new vegetables grown, new varieties tried, and other new things I’ve learned. 

2020 GARDEN SEASON

2020 OUTDOOR GARDEN SEASON

THE 2020 OUTDOOR GARDEN SEASON is now wrapped up. Snow and below zero temps began Sunday, October 25. All remaining plants were removed from the garden during the prior week, including carrots, potatoes, parsnips, leeks, brussels sprouts, broccoli, cauliflower & kale. Most beds have been covered with compost & hay mulch, so they can rest throughout the winter months. (Without enough compost to cover all beds, a few beds remain–waiting for compost & mulch later.) The greenhouse continues year-round, keeps me busy, and provides fresh produce that doesn’t store as well as many of the things grown outside.

“EVERY YEAR IS DIFFERENT” is my new theme, and this year may have been the craziest of all! It was the most unique year we’ve had so far, in many ways. Here is a wrap-up of 2020 Outdoor Garden highlights.

LATE & EARLY WEATHER EVENTS

This year we experienced a late snow storm June 9 along with an early snow storm September 9. This was by far the shortest summer season we’ve had since I’ve been recording weather stats in 2015. The chart shows 2020 alongside the previous years with the number of days between a low of 32° and number of days between snow storms. 

Rainfall and temperatures were pretty close to average throughout the summer, with the exception of September, which was colder. We did not have much hail this year. The hail we did have was small and did not cause damage, thanks to our shade cloth protection. 

MENTIONABLE PESTS

Pack Rat

This year we saw almost no bugs. Just a few of the grubs we normally see, a few leaf miners and very few aphids.

This was the first year we had noticeable damage from rodents: mice & pack rats. Other folks in the area have complained of the same dilemma (I’ve heard of quite a few pack rat nests & damage in local cars.)

For us, the mice ate small seedlings in the garden; particularly the broccoli, cauliflower & cabbage seedlings. The pack rats came a bit later on, demolishing full-grown bean plants, carrot tops, potato plants & onions. Near the end of the summer Tim made some bait stations large enough to let the pack rats in and keep the cat & dog out. They seemed to be quite effective, so next year we’ll plan to get the bait stations out early in the season and stay ahead of the game.

NEW VEGETABLES GROWN IN 2020

MELON

This year I attempted to grow Minnesota Midget, a mini-cantaloupe stated to mature in 65-70 Days. I knew it would appreciate warmth and wasn't sure how successful it would be outdoors, so I grew one plant in the greenhouse, another outdoors. In the greenhouse I harvested two of the small melons; outdoors, none.

PARSNIPS

I'd tried parsnips at our previous location where they did not do well. But here they seem to like the cooler weather, they are delicious, and I will do them again in the future. This year's parsnip selection was Gladiator.

2020's NEW VARIETIES

I tried a few new varieties of veggies I’ve grown before. For more detailed information, please see the individual pages for each vegetable.

CAULIFLOWER: I did not have much success with growing either Charming Snow or a Self-Blanching variety of cauliflower in the past. This year I had some great success with Snow Crown F1

BROCCOLINI: Head broccoli has done well here, but this was the first year I’ve grown broccolini, first in the greenhouse, then in the outdoor garden. Aspabroc F1 did very well in both locations, kept me supplied with a great amount of broccolini, and I will definitely continue growing this delight.

WINTER SQUASH: My new successful trial was Small Wonder F1, a smaller-sized, short-season spaghetti squash. It was quite prolific and produced several nice sized squashes for the two of us, both outdoors & in the greenhouse. One nice thing about it was an abundance of male flowers I could use to pollinate all my other squash.
I also tried the Butterbush F1 variety in both the greenhouse and outdoor gardens. These were not successful in either location. I had trouble getting it to sprout & grow early enough in the greenhouse, and the outdoor plant did not produce squashes in time for them to mature before the first freeze.

PEAS: I tried an old variety, new to me, PLS 560. They probably grew as expected, but they were short, odd little plants than got all twangled up around each other, making it difficult to pick the peas. They were interesting, but I will probably not grow them again. I also grew snow peas for the first time, Oregon Sugar Pod II Snow Pea, and they were a hit, to be planned again for next year.

NOTABLE HARVESTS

THE VEGETABLES GROWN this year will be updated for 2020 the “What We Grow” pages, but harvests of note were:

ONIONS: This year I purchased onion plants from Dixondale Farms, rather than starting my own from seed. I need a good head start on them prior to planting for this short season climate, and I just haven’t been able to do that with my greenhouse space limitations. This was the BEST ONION HARVEST I’ve had in this garden. Onions were attacked quite a bit by the pack rats, but continued to grow and produced nice bulbs for storage. I will definitely do this again in the future. I bought the Intermediate Day Sampler, with Candy, Superstar & Red Candy onions.
GARLIC did very well this year: Siberian Hardneck, purple stripe type. I tried growing Elephant Garlic, which had grown well in 2018, but this winter must have been too cold. None of the elephant garlic survived–it all turned to mush.

CARROTS: Although attacked by the pack rats, the carrots did reach a decent  size for harvest, although smaller than previous years for the same varieties. Napoli, Mokum & Purplesnax.
POTATOES:
Potatoes (Desiree, Pioneer Russet) did not do well at all this year. I was disappointed. I did not weigh them, but there may not have been more than 10-15 lbs. (Last year’s harvest was about 75 lbs in the same amount of space.) I suspect the reason was because there was the snow/cold in June just after the plants had begun to grow. Even though I’d covered them with frost cloth, they suffered some frost damage. Later on, several of the plant tops were gnawed off by the pack rats. 

ALL THINGS CONSIDERED, this unique year was quite successful despite its challenges. I look forward to the next, and the next, and the next…..

GARDENSITE 500sq

CHOOSING THE GARDEN SITE

CHOOSING THE GARDEN SITE

As we began to plan our garden, the first thing we needed to do was to decide where to put it. Conventional thought suggests that gardens should be placed with full southern exposure. We also thought that in our cooler climate the southern exposure would be especially important. Our first inclination, therefore, was to put the garden right in front of the house, at the south side where the greenhouse is currently located. Had we put the garden in that spot, water would have been readily available from the house, but we would have had to do a lot of terracing. It would have been a lot of work. We thought about other spots in flatter areas, still not far from the house and south of the trees.

Then, after observing what the summer conditions had been like our first two summers here, and reading about some of the challenges faced by other Colorado Rocky Mountain gardeners, we decided to look for a better spot.

We began to observe that on most of the slopes around here, the south facing side is often quite barren of trees and vegetation, while the northern facing slopes are lush and green. See the photo at the top of the page. Those bare, green slopes have full southern exposure, but on the northern sides they are lush and green. Shouldn’t we pay attention to that? What we hadn’t been thinking about was that the sun is so intense at high elevation, it bakes the plants and dries them out. 

We rode our horses to the top of Black Mountain, not far from here. From the top we could see those hillsides below us as. The slopes that are lush and full of vegetation face the north, while the barren slopes are south-facing. We thought that these natural areas must know something we don't! We decided to look around on the property for a better spot for the garden.

We decided to place the garden northeast of the house with some trees around to provide some wind protection and a little afternoon shade. Although the summer temperatures don’t get incredibly high (85°F is a rare, HOT day for us) the plants have less of a chance to survive without protection from the sun. Also, when the winds pick up it dries out the soil quickly, and would have done so in front of our house where it is so exposed. At the northeast it is a bit protected from the brunt of the wind and gets a little late afternoon shade.

During the winter, that spot gets much more shade and the snow stays on the ground longer. This is not really a problem, and may benefit the soil by keeping it covered with snow for a longer period of time. There is plenty of sun there during the summer growing season.

While we were building our house, we were living in our RV, and had a water hydrant placed nearby. This water source is close enough to provide water to the garden where it is located.

Now that the garden has been fully functional for three years, we are glad we chose this location.

the garden

GROWING FOOD

GROWING FOOD AT 9,000 FEET

Garden

Our High Elevation Vegetable Garden, at just under 9,000 feet elevation*, was started in the Spring of 2017. While our focus here at HIGH COUNTRY LIVING will be growing food at HIGH ELEVATION, there will be a great deal of general gardening tips that can apply at any location. 

OUR GARDEN HISTORY

To start off and get an idea of where we're coming from, please read a little of our gardening history. This photo shows our first garden in our former location.

CHOOSING THE GARDEN SITE

Our new garden was in the planning stages for several months, starting with CHOOSING THE GARDEN SITE. All of our careful planning paid off, and we've reaped the reward of a successful garden.

OUTDOOR GARDEN

Our raised beds are topped with hoops to allow protection from the intense sun or cold nights. OUTDOORS we grow the things that do well in our climate; the more tender plants grow in the GREENHOUSE.

GREENHOUSE

We can't grow everything we want to outdoors--not even in the summer months. We've added a heated GREENHOUSE to grow the most tender plants in the summer and a variety of things throughout the winter.

CLIMATE & GROWING ZONES

Mountain climates can be different from one hill or meadow to the next, and determines what we can and cannot grow. At high elevation this can be tricky, and the USDA Zones don't fit for our elevation.

THE FOOD WE GROW

We grow many vegetables, either outdoors or in the greenhouse. See WHAT GROWS AT 9,000' (and what's unsuccessful).

*ELEVATION VS. ALTITUDE

There are many websites and publications about high elevation/high altitude gardening or cooking which use the words “elevation” or “altitude” arbitrarily and interchangeably. Throughout this website you’ll primarily see “elevation,” NOT “altitude” to indicate our location.

ELEVATION is used more for a PLACE on earth and its relation to sea level, i.e. a city, mountaintop, a home garden.
ALTITUDE is used to indicate an OBJECT’s relation to sea level, such as an airplane.

greenhouse500x333

GROWING FOOD IN THE GREENHOUSE

GROWING FOOD IN THE GREENHOUSE

 

November 7, 2019

The greenhouse at Good News Ranch has kept us supplied with year-round vegetables since 2017.  During our winters the greenhouse provides us with lettuce, spinach, chard, bok choy, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage and zucchini. We enjoy fresh tomatoes year-round from the greenhouse. I’ve also occasionally harvested turnips, rutabagas, beets, daikon radish, kohlrabi, & Chinese cabbage. Herbs growing are thyme, rosemary, cilantro and basil. Summers provide us with tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and sometimes winter squash all in the greenhouse, while everything else is grown in the outdoor garden. Please see the blog post, “Garden Planning & Implementation” to read more about our greenhouse construction.

GREENHOUSE SOIL

4/7 Cover Crop Growth

Our greenhouse beds are raised atop a concrete floor, and reach about 28″ in height. The soil we created at first (2017) was a combination of compost (we purchased from a garden center), manure, peat moss, leaves and perlite. Since then it has matured from the addition of vermicompost & its worms, various nutrients & fertilizers, & garden compost.  Each time plants are removed and new ones replace them, the area is refreshed with garden compost, vermicompost & fertilizers.

Since our greenhouse is used year-round, we have quite a turnover of plants! (See “Planning” below.) In order to refresh the soil, we occasionally will grow a cover crop in these beds. I call them “baby covers” since they only grow to about 3-4″ tall before they are tilled into the soil. See the “Cover Crops” page for more details.

GREENHOUSE WARMTH

POND-Holds 200 gals water

For the month of January 2018, the greenhouse temperatures averaged 74°F during the day, and 56°F overnight. (The outdoor temps ranged from -9 to +62, averaging 11 at night and 48 during the day that month.) At first, we had been installing insulation over the glazing each night to retain the heat that had been collected during the day, but decided that was unnecessary. Now, we only do this when it is extremely cold. The floor and soil in the beds are heated from the sun during the day, and the soil stays at about 65-70°F. The pond (shown at left) is filled with water to act as mass thermal storage. We are now using a radiator heating unit that draws its heat from the water heated by our solar collector. We have a small, on-demand propane water heater which heats the water when the sun doesn’t shine and the solar collector storage tank has run out of hot water. These are all automated to turn on and off as needed.

GREENHOUSE PLANNING

A lot of planning goes into the Greenhouse. I’m continually planting & replanting & letting small areas rest between plantings. I’ve learned to plan ahead by guessing how long plants will be in their spots, then starting new seedlings under grow lights so they’ll be ready to go in shortly after the previous plant has been removed. During the summer I don’t use the entire space, so I can use some of that greenhouse space for potted plants that can’t stay outside when it’s too cold. I use the GrowVeg Garden Planner with its month-to-month feature to rotate the plants on my Greenhouse chart.

WHAT GROWS IN THE GREENHOUSE?

November 7, 2019

WINTER: After several years, I’ve learned a few things about how things grow and when and where I should plant things in the future. I’d had high expectations that things would grow like they do outside, since the optimum warmth would be kept high. However, without the addition of an artificial light source, the plants receive fewer hours of light per day during the winter months. They grow much more slowly than they do in summer outside! As the spring days gradually getting longer, the plants grow faster. Some things do better than others: the cold-season crops such as kale, chard, spinach and lettuces have done well during the winter. The tomatoes are quite productive, but the tomatoes are smaller and ripen much more slowly than in summer months. Since our greenhouse is not as tall as stand-alone greenhouses typically will be, I can’t plant tall things. I’ve learned to stay with “compact” varieties of all plants, especially tomatoes. The only exception to that is I usually plant one or two indeterminate tomatoes that can be trained along the beam above.

SUMMER: In summer months the greenhouse is used primarily for tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers & occasionally a winter squash or two (smaller, compact varieties). The tomatoes & pepper do not do well outside here and are reserved for greenhouse growing. I try to keep the tomatoes in the bed that’s farthest from the front windows, as it can be quite hot in those front beds, even for tomatoes. Since the winter squash can be started much earlier in the greenhouse than it can outdoors, I’m often able to use the male flowers from the greenhouse to hand-pollinate the outdoor squash. Since natural pollinators are few in the mountains, I depend on hand-pollinating the squash. 

When planting the beds by the windows, I had planted some of the larger things, such as kale and swiss chard, at the back of the beds, thinking that the shorter plants in front should be more accessible to me, but I wasn’t thinking about the larger plants by the windows shading the plants closer to the inside edge. Although the shorter plants may be harder to get at, they should have been planted closer to the windows behind the taller plants from the perspective of where I stand to work. 

Vertical Zucchini

I’d read that growing zucchini vertically is a space saver, and a good way to grow it in a greenhouse. I tried that, and I’m glad I did. Rather than having the plant sprawl across the bed, it is growing nicely upward, saving space around it for other things. The zucchinis are easy to see and easy to pick. 

With the year-round greenhouse, I have little need to do canning! I used to plant LOTS of tomatoes and spent the late summer months in the kitchen with dozens of canning projects. Now that I have year-round tomatoes, I rarely do canning, unless I have an over-abundance of tomatoes all at the same time. I’ll occasionally make just a couple of my favorite recipes, such as sweet chile sauce. Additionally, I used to grow extras of things like broccoli or cauliflower for freezing or cabbage for sauerkraut during the summer months, but I no longer do that: I can enjoy it fresh all year. I reserve the outdoor garden for the things that cannot be grown in the greenhouse or just do better outside.

GREENHOUSE PESTS

The greenhouse suffers from two pests: aphids & pill bugs. I do my best to control them but they keep returning. 

APHIDS: For aphids I spray with neem. This seems to work the best. The aphids are especially bad on peppers, and make me not want to grow peppers in the greenhouse again.

PILL BUGS: These don’t do too much damage to the larger plants, but they often eat small seedlings until there’s nothing left. They really like the brassicas, spinach and young tomatoes, and pretty much leave the lettuce alone. I’ve begun putting collars of cut bottles or cans around the seedlings until they are big enough to withstand a little damage. In some cases the collars stay around the stem for the life of the plant. Gallon vinegar bottles cut into 2″ collars work well for this.

Tall Raised Bed

RAISED BEDS

RAISED BEDS

Our raised garden beds are not necessarily crucial for “high-altitude” gardening, but are our choice. Our raised beds at 28″ high are like a dream come true! It is such a joy to go out and work in the garden with the beds at this height. I am only 5′ tall, so for me these beds are almost at waist height, and it is so much easier to work, plant, harvest, pull weeds, pick out bugs, etc. In 2018 I fractured my hip, and I could not have done all the work I did that next summer without these raised beds.

The benefits of raising vegetables in raised beds are many:

  • the soil can be built according to specific needs, and can be altered on a bed-by-bed basis
  • the weeds, and to some extent pests, are kept out of the vegetable beds
  • beds are not walked on and packed down
  • beds can be built at a height easier for working (no bending over!)
  • water can be retained in the beds more easily
  • hoop frames can be easily attached for bed coverings such as plastic or shade cloth
  • soil can be warmed more quickly for earlier planting

Okay, just to be fair, there are disadvantages to raised beds.

  • materials can be costly
  • they can initially take time to construct, and may require some construction aptitude (which thankfully Tim possesses)
  • uh…I can’t think of anything else

SOIL IN THE RAISED BEDS
After constructing our raised beds, they needed to be filled with good soil. We didn’t want to spend extra money on topsoil, prepared garden soil products, etc., and wanted to use materials on hand. We had our natural soil tested. It wasn’t all that bad to begin with, but needed more organic matter. That we have! When we moved here two years prior to building the garden, we knew we would want a garden and in preparation began composting, adding our duck manure and bedding to the heap along with kitchen scraps, horse manure and other organic matter from the property. Additionally, we saved a large pile of horse manure to age until the garden would be built. Our garden soil in our beds was prepared with layers of the aged manure, natural rock-free soil found on our property, duck manure & bedding, aspen leaves raked up from under the trees, and about 3″ of the compost we had created at the top layer. As the layers were put down, we lightly mixed the materials together and watered after every 3 layers or so.

All went well, the soil seems good. It ranges around 6.5 ph. For plants that require more alkaline or acid, the soil is adjusted. The only downfall for us has been an overpopulation of GRUBS. I suspect that eggs had been laid in the aging pile of manure. I checked the remaining manure pile, and sure enough, it is filled with grubs as well. I am currently working on controlling them before they become beetles. So far the damage has been minimal. (July 2017) I frequently find the ducks climbing over the pile eating the grubs: Yay, Ducks!